ASSEMBLING M&R SIDES ON AMERICAN MODELS LIMITED CORE

WARNING! M&R PRODUCTS ARE NOT INTENDED FOR USE BY CHILDREN.
THE PARTS HAVE SHARP EDGES.  DURING WORK PROTECT YOUR EYES.



The following instructions are intended to help modelers to assemble the ALM core kit with M&R sides.  This same method would also in applying Budd plated sides to Kato and Concor Budd car models, though it is necessary to cut down the sides so that the M&R sides can be glued into place.

Begin assembly by glueing the ends to roof, making sure that the joints are square.  While this dries, sand the BACK of each etching to “rough-up” the finish so glue adheres better.

ACC glue .020” x .080” (or .020” x .100”) styrene strip framing around all four edges of the etching, trimming where necessary to clear all windows to make glazing the windows easier.  Make sure no styrene hangs over the edges of the sides since this prevent the sides from tightly fitting against the ends and roof, causing unsightly gaps.  (File or trim as needed, being careful not to file away any of the metal of the sides.)

Use styrene cement to glue framed sides to pre-glued ends and roof.  When done properly, this allows the floor piece to “pop” into and out of place.  Most builders will prefer this since interiors can be added later and windows glazing placement or replacement is easier.

After assembly is dry, check seams where metal meets plastic (on exterior) to make sure they are tight and run a bead of ACC with a toothpick around all INSIDE seams (plastic to plastic and metal to plastic).  This “wicks” into crevices and void that maybe missed in the assembly process and helps to “tightens-up” the body.

On none plated car sides, you can sand with 400 grit sand paper so paint will adhere better.  This could also help on plated cars on which Alclad paints is to be used to create the appearance of stainless steel.

FOR ARTICULATED CARS:  A metal strip (plastic could be used) will need to go across the top center of center truck(s).  Drill holes through the strip to put in a small bolt that would coming up through the trucks and the strip and into the floor.  Two nuts would be needed, one on top holds the bolt in place and acts as a bolster for the car floor to sit on while the second would attach the truck to the floor.  The cars need to have a removeable floor so as to provide for accessing the nuts.

Drill holes in the end of each floor at the articulation end for the bolts to slide through.  They must be centered exactly, so the cars do not "crab", or ride off-center from one another.  When the car body is snapped into the floor, the assembly is set on top of the bolts so that they protrude up into the car bodies.  You can vary the distance between the hole you drill and the distance between the bolts on the truck to make the cars ride closer together or farther apart depending on how sharp your curves are on the track layout.  I actually use the operating diaphrams (not full width) so the faces touch even on corners.

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